May 27, 2011

A Look Back: Laos

Laos: the most heavily bombed country in the world. At least, that's what we were told while sitting in an eco lodge alongside a sleepy river in the northern town of Luang Nam Tha. Hard to believe, we thought as we nestled into our sticky rice and pumpkin soup.

The lodge, The Boat Landing Guesthouse, was owned by a British ex-pat and was run on earth-friendly practices: solar power, composting, etc. and provided a charming and relaxing place to reflect after a 3 day trek into the Laotian hills.


Laos is stunningly beautiful. The lack of people (there are more Laotian speakers in Thailand than in Laos), allows the landscape to be appreciated full on. The most you see of civilization consists of heavily eroded, muddy roads and thatched huts alongside sweeping rice patties, both of which (the roads and the huts) seem to co-exist with their surroundings effortlessly.


After the curry-induced coma of Northern Thailand and before the chaos of Vietnam, Laos is a country left in the middle. Completely landlocked, it occasionally goes unnoticed by those who make their way to SouthEast Asia. With Thai beaches to the southwest,famous tailor shops, high peaks, and world heritage sights to the east, and the world's largest temple complex to the south, it's a shame that Laos is passed by. When asked what my favorite country of my 2006 trip was, I often tell people Laos. Of course, my opinions change frequently, especially considering the "what was your favorite place?" question is so loaded.

But when I take most factors into account (the scenery, the people, the food, the "real" authentic experiences), Laos wins, hands down.

Taking 9 hours to drive 100 miles with two flat tires on a muddy, unpaved road is an "authentic" experience, one that I look back on fondly.

Hiking into the hills and spending the night in a Lanten tribe village eating dinner with the village chief in candlelight: an "authentic" experience (along with the following day's hike which consisted of hour after hour of pulling leeches off our legs!).

Dipping my toes into the mighty Mekong as we float lazily around each bend in long, wooden boats, with sunhats and sarongs to keep the sun off our skin, another "authentic" experience.

Waking up in Luang Prabang in the darkness to the beat of low drums and stumbling onto the quiet street to watch a procession of brightly orange clad monks receiving their alms for the day: Simply beautiful.

Laos is poor. Laos is communist (I have nothing against this). Laos is quiet. Laos is laidback. Laos is one of the 10 poorest countries of the world, but their poverty is not blatent. There is minimal street begging, minimal homelessness. Just those working the fields, in huts on land their families have kept for centuries. Laos makes you wonder about the true meaning of happiness. Is ignorance really bliss? This country will prompt you to think about many questions, while unobtrusively offering you the answers.

I can't wait to go back.

No comments:

Post a Comment